A burred spline can easily be corrected. Use a small triangle file, remove burrs the length of the spline. After burrs have been removed, position a straight edge in the same manner as the triangle file. Using the straight edge as a guide, check to make sure the splines are not twisted. Step 5 Coat the surface of the hub of the converter with automatic transmission fluid. For racing applications or vehicles that are used for towing, pour one 1 quart of transmission fluid in converter.
Install converter on transmission carefully, supporting the weight of it to avoid damage to the front pump seal. Rotate converter as you push it on.
The splined couplings input shaft and stator support and the pump lugs must engage properly to allow the converter to slide all the way onto the transmission. Pull converter off slightly, then push it on again, rotating it at the same time until proper clearance is obtained. Do not proceed further until you have installed converter properly. Step 1 Install transmission on dowel pins. Converter MUST be free to rotate and to move forward and backward end-play after transmission is bolted to engine.
Transmission and converter should mate with engine, crankshaft, and flywheel with relative ease. Face of transmission flange must be flush with engine all the way around before any bolts are tightened. NEVER use bolts to 'draw up' transmission to case.
The transmission should not be allowed to hang on the dowel pins. Transmission must be supported until at least two 2 bolts have been installed and fully tightened. Step 2 After transmission and converter are bolted together check converter for freedom of movement. Make sure converter can rotate and has end-play. If converter has no end-play, converter was installed improperly. Remove transmission and correct problem. Chrysler Transmissions: Align small hole in flexplate opposite converter drain plug.
This will align all four 4 converter bolts properly. Step 3 Complete the transmission installation only when end-play is satisfactory. Step 4 Elevate rear wheels 3" off ground. Install four 4 quarts transmission fluid. Use a good grade of automatic transmission fluid. BTE can supply you with racing fluid. Start engine and finish filling transmission as quickly as possible. Do not overfill. Tip: You can normally find a good independent transmission technician that works at a transmission shop but also does side jobs to do the rebuild.
Replacing With Remanufactured Transmission If you plan on replacing your transmission with a remanufactured, you can use the form below to get an estimate for a remanufactured transmission to your e-mail.
Keeping nuts, bolts, washers, clamps, etc. Organize nuts and bolts: For organizing nuts and bolts, we recommend using labeled plastic containers or baggies, whichever you have available.
Park your vehicle on a flat concrete surface, put the shifter in Park, set the emergency brake, pull the hood latch and then open the hood. Move the cable end away from the battery post. Safety Tip: To eliminate any chance of battery arching, after removing the battery cable, wrap a rag around the cable end and place a wrap over the battery terminal. Note About Radio Code: On many newer vehicles, whenever the battery is disconnected a radio code is needed to get the stereo working again.
Have your vehicle identification number VIN readily available before making the call. The dipstick tube also called transmission fill tube is normally secured to the transmission or engine with a single nut or bolt. If not, you can remove it later from underneath. Still working under the hood, locate and disconnect any transmission electrical connectors you see.
Remove any starter bolts that are accessible. Any starter bolts that are not removed now will be removed later from underneath. Complete removal of the starter is normally not necessary. Once the bolts are removed, just pull the starter out of the bell housing and push aside. Remove any of the top bell housing to engine bolts that are accessible — otherwise the bolts will be removed later from underneath.
Note: You should be placing nuts and bolts in their labeled containers as you remove them. Note: When removing brackets, mark their locations or make a simple drawing showing their locations. When disconnecting hoses and cables, make a drawing showing how each one is routed. Taking photos before disconnecting brackets, hoses and cables should serve the same purpose, which is to make the installation of these components easier and quicker. Using a floor jack, lift the front of the vehicle and secure with jack stands.
Although it is not absolutely necessary, lifting the rear of the vehicle and supporting with jack stands makes the job a little easier. Note: When jacking up the vehicle, be sure to give yourself ample room to work underneath.
Also, keep in mind that once the transmission is removed and lowered to the floor, the vehicle must be high enough off the floor to allow the transmission to be slid out from underneath the vehicle.
This will allow the pan to drop down on one end so the fluid can drain into your catch pan. Remove the 4 U-joint bolts that hold the driveshaft to the rear differential. Then, using a small pry bar or screwdriver, pry the driveshaft forward to release it from the differential. Now, pull the driveshaft out of the transmission and set aside. Place the U-joint bolts and hardware in an appropriately marked container. Tip: When pulling the driveshaft out of the transmission, be careful not to allow it to fall hard to the floor.
Also, wrap tape around the joint caps to keep them from falling off and the pins from falling out of the caps.
Tip: Use colored markers to mark connectors and hoses for easy and correct installation. Mark the connector and its respective plugin with the same color. Do the same with vacuum hoses and any other parts that might be confusing during installation.
Tip: It is best to use a line wrench when loosening and tightening the oil cooler lines. Also, when pulling the lines out, be careful not to lose the thin metal washers. The fittings will leak if these washers are not replaced. Again, complete removal of the starter is normally unnecessary. Just pull it out and away from the bell housing so that it does not interfere with the removal of the transmission.
Secure the starter with a piece of wire or bungee strap. Do not allow starter to hang by the starter wiring. The cover is normally made of thin metal or aluminum and is held in place by a several 10mm or 12mm bolts. You can rotate the engine in one of two ways; Use a breaker bar and large socket to rotate the center harmonic balancer bolt on the front of the engine or by leveraging a small pry bar or large screwdriver between the teeth of the flywheel and the bell housing in such a way that allows you to turn the flywheel in either direction.
To make this task easier, remove some or all of the spark plugs from the engine. These are usually more difficult to remove because there is very little space. This situation will create a real mess and can be potentially dangerous. With the weight of the transmission resting on the jack, remove the transmission mount bolts. Removing the transmission mount bolts or nuts allows the transmission to be separated from the cross member.
Tip: If cross member bolts are difficult to remove, you need to raise the transmission jack to take more of the weight off the cross member. Unless the vehicle has duel exhaust all the way back, which most do not, there is a crossover pipe that connects the left side exhaust to the right side. At a minimum, the crossover pipe must be removed. Once the crossover pipe is removed, look closely at the exhaust pipe, the section of the exhaust system that includes the catalytic converter and muffler to determine if it also needs to be removed.
Tip: Remove any section of the exhaust system that you feel could interfere with your ability to separate the transmission from the engine and lower it to the floor. Having to remove parts of the exhaust after the transmission is separated from the engine is much more difficult. The bolt you leave in should be one of bottom bolts that is easy to get too.
To remove the top bell housing bolts, if you have not already done so, lower the transmission jack so that the rear of the transmission drops down and away from the undercarriage of the vehicle. This will increase the work space on the top side of the transmission enabling you to use a ratchet and long extension to remove the upper bell housing bolts.
Note: When lowering the transmission in order to give you the added work space needed to remove the top bell housing bolts, the weight of the transmission still needs to be supported by the jack. If the jack is lowered completely, the engine will tilt severely on its mounts, possible weakening or breaking the mounts.
Caution: Some hydraulic floor jacks are very sensitive when lowering and can drop suddenly. For added safety, place a jack stand directly under the rear of the transmission to serve as a hard stop. Replace your transmission filter after initial use, since automatic transmission bearings and clutches have a break-in that generates fiber and metallic particles. TCI recommends replacement of its filter after 20 race passes or miles of street driving.
DO NOT use a solid transmission mount because the transmission is not meant to be a stressed member of your chassis. Be sure to check out our video post for helpful TCI transmission installation tips! It covers things like installing kickdown cables, adjusting a vacuum modulator, and more. Your email address will not be published. Your Website. Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. This site uses Akismet to reduce spam.
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