Large format tiles come in a wide range of colors and designs, making them suitable for a variety of design aesthetics. Large format tile is considered to be square or rectangular tiles larger than 12x12, including popular wood look porcelain planks in sizes like 6x24 and 6x They are durable, and because of their size, fewer are needed per space, meaning fewer grout lines making cleanup and maintenance a breeze. For flooring, accent walls, shower and tub surrounds, countertops , backsplashes , and kitchen islands, large format tiles can help visually expand your space, and create a cohesive feel.
While large format tiles are appealing because they are durable, easy to clean, and come in a wide array of colors and designs, it is important to address installation as these tiles require special handling to insure a professional finish. Obviously large format tiles are heavier than smaller tiles. However, what many people fail to realize is that even though the overall weight of the floor remains the same, heavier tiles require a stronger substrate.
In addition, with smaller tiles installers may be able to disguise floors that are less than level, but with larger format tiles, that becomes a challenge. A high point in the floor can cause the tile to slope, creating a tripping hazard, as well as being visually disruptive.
For proper installation, floors and other horizontal surfaces need to be level and vertical surfaces must be plumb. Height and depth variations will be noticeable.
For floors that are not level, consider using a self-leveling underlayment. For walls that are not plumb, the walls may need adjustment prior to installation. Laying out the tiles prior to installation is important. It helps you to select a pattern that best suits the room. Large format tiles allow for a variety of intriguing patterns including traditional brick patterns, herringbone, straight joint, chevrons, cobblestone, basket weave, and circular rectangular. This helps to prevent cracking and lippage, as well as creates a more beautiful end result.
Choosing Grout. As with all tile floors, the color of the grout needs as much consideration as the tiles themselves. When installing large format tiles and planks, it is vital to adhere to the recommended grout line widths, recommended patterns, and all installation guidelines. If you want a more cohesive flow to the room, it is recommended to use grout that is as close to the color of the tile, as possible.
This creates a more seamless appearance, and helps to visually expand the room, allowing the beauty of the tiles to shine.
This creates a graphic linear pattern and helps to bring attention to the floor. To produce a more seamless look, select a grout that is closer to the color of the tile, or perhaps one that is even just a shade darker to add subtle dimension. If you love the look of reclaimed wood, but are hesitant about the durability and upkeep required, Salvage Red Porcelain Tile below , available in 6x40 planks, is a great option. They can also be installed in a herringbone or chevron pattern for additional visual interest.
It is highly recommended that you layout a variety of patterns in the room to determine which design best suits the room. Due to the weight, and the size of large format tiles, it is imperative to use mortars or thin-sets specifically formulated to support the larger tiles. This is important for all installations whether vertical or horizontal.
Polymer modified mortars and medium-bed mortars help tiles adhere to walls better, and shrink less keeping tile from moving and cracking. Medium-bed mortars are often used for flooring to help prevent lippage and slumping into the mortar bed. As more and more large format tiles come to market, more specially designed mortars are developed to support the weight. Some of the new formulations contain microspheres that help to keep tiles level and plumb. When purchasing tile, discuss the various types of mortars available to ensure a beautiful result that will endure decades of wear.
Cracking is also a concern with large format tiles if they are not installed as recommended. Shrinkage of the mortar and uneven surfaces are often the cause. Crack isolation membranes help to prevent this problem and are installed directly to the substrate.
Installation of large format tiles may require special handling but their beauty, durability, and low maintenance make them well worth the additional upfront planning and extra time it takes to install them.
Browse through our porcelain collection , which includes our large format tiles, for inspiration on how you can transform floors, backsplashes, showers and tubs, and create stunning accent walls to enhance the beauty of your home. Planning the Layout Laying out the tiles prior to installation is important. Choosing Grout As with all tile floors, the color of the grout needs as much consideration as the tiles themselves. Safeguarding Against Cracking with Proper Mortar Due to the weight, and the size of large format tiles, it is imperative to use mortars or thin-sets specifically formulated to support the larger tiles.
A first look: top 5 design trends of Bringing the top five trends to life. Designing a light, bright kitchen with sunday house interior design studio. Defining the pei rating for porcelain tile Our top 10 bold and blue backsplash tiles How to choose the right white quartz countertop for your kitchen or bath The history of luxury vinyl tile Can stacked stone be installed on drywall?
Divide the room into smaller grids approx. Carefully read and follow all instructions and precautions on the adhesive or mortar package. Mix only enough to be used within 30 minutes. Do not cover guidelines.
Next, use the notched side of trowel to comb adhesive into standing ridges by holding trowel at a degree angle. Make straight or diagonal cuts with a tile cutter, curved cuts with a nipper chipping away small pieces for best results and full-length curved cuts with a rod saw. Begin installing tiles in the center of the room, one grid at a time.
Finish each grid before moving to the next. When grid is completely installed, tap in all tiles with a rubber mallet or hammer and wood block to ensure a good bond and level plane.
The idea is to avoid having small, cut tiles against a wall, as this can be visually jarring. Shift this cross-like assembly in any direction, so that any tile that borders a wall is as close as possible to being a half tile or larger. When you pick up the tile, carefully stack the pieces so that you can keep track of which tiles go where. Pick up a small batch of thinset mortar with your margin trowel or with the flat side of your notched trowel and deposit the thinset on the cement board.
Holding the flat side of your notched tile trowel at a degree angle, spread the mortar across the surface until it covers an area extending beyond the perimeter of a tile.
Switch to the notched side of the same trowel and, again holding it at a degree angle and pressing firmly to the cement board, comb the thinset by pulling the trowel in straight lines. The notches in the trowel automatically regulate the amount of thinset deposited on the surface.
Gently press the tile into the wet thinset, twisting the tile back and forth to press it deeper into the thinset. Your aim is to collapse any ridges in the mortar and fill in gaps. Occasionally lift a tile and check the back to ensure full coverage.
As you progress from one tile to the next, place tile spacers at the corners to maintain consistent spacing. Do not add mortar to these gaps.
Lay the bubble level across multiple tiles to check for both level and to eliminate lippage from one tile to the next. Lightly tap the tiles with the rubber mallet to level them. For cutting only a few tiles, a rail tile cutter can inexpensively and effectively snap apart tiles.
Place the uneven, snapped sides against the wall, where baseboards will cover them. Buy or rent a wet tile saw for perfectly straight cuts. Use the tile nipper only for cutting around pipes, toilet bases, and for other non-linear cuts.
Working in a roughly 2x3' [6] X Research source area, use a tiling trowel to apply the mortar. Hold the notched trowel at a shallow angle against the wall, so that the notches on one of its long sides dig grooves into the mortar. Use long, sweeping motions to apply the mortar. Your trowel size will depend on the size and type of tile you're using. For the average small wall tiles which are currently popular, you will want to use a 1x4" square notch trowel.
Test a tile to make sure the mortar is mixed and spread correctly. Mortar a small spot and then place a tile. Pull the tile up and look at the pattern that is create on the back. If you see clear lines, then the mortar is too dry. If you see goopy mounds then the mortar is too wet. Place your tiles on the wall. With the mortar ready to go, you can start placing your tiles.
Just twist them into place, sticking to the small area that you prepared for yourself. Place your spacers between each tile as you go. These are usually cross shaped and placed at the corners but if you have unusual tiles you may have to improvise, such as by placing only one arm between tiles and letting the rest of the spacer stick out. If the mortar rises up between the tiles as you place them, the bed is too thick and you will need a smaller trowel.
Check the tiles for level as you go. This is when a laser level can really come in handy. Part 3. Choose and mix your grout. You'll need to choose what grout is appropriate for your project, depending on how large the gaps are between your tiles. Once you've chosen, mix the grout according to the packaging directions, being sure to also mix any additives you want. Usually, you will start with the water in a bowl or bucket and add powder until the consistency is like toothpaste.
Mix only what you can spread in about 20 minutes, since mixing any more risks the product drying out. Sanded grout is used for gaps larger than 3mm. Unsanded grout is used for gaps smaller than 3mm. You can find all sorts of additives at your local hardware store. These can do everything from making the grout more water resistant to changing the color to match your tiles. Spread the grout , using a grout float.
Now, spread the grout using a grout float in a roughly 3x3' area, or whatever size you can grout in about 20 minutes. You do not want to push the grout around parallel to the lines, since this can gouge the grout back out of the gaps. You can save yourself some time by using the grout float to remove as much of the excess grout off of the tiles as possible. Clean the grout. After allowing the grout to cure for 20 minutes wipe the tiles with a clean, damp sponge to remove any excess grout from the tiled surface.
Wipe just a small area, clean out the sponge, and then wipe some more. It is best to do this for each small area as you complete it but you can wait until you have done two to four small areas as well. Keep in mind, however, that it will be much harder to get the grout off and the final look may not be as professional. Allow it to cure.
Now, allow the grout to cure for three hours or whatever amount of time is recommended on your product directions. Make sure that the area remains dry and that it gets adequate ventilation. Some additives may cause the grout to cure more slowly. See the included packaging for any addendums to the curing process.
You can clean off any remaining residue after the grout has cured. An old sock or dry rag work well for this. Seal the grout. Once you have installed all of your tile, you'll want to apply a grout sealer. This will help keep mold from growing in the gaps and will need to be reapplied usually every year preferably every six months.
0コメント