I was starting to agonize about the transmission mount. The XJ40 uses a spring loaded assembly mounted to a small crossmember to suspend the transmission near the output shaft. Measurements and internet research were showing that the automatic mount could potentially be adapted, but history has shown that fabrication jobs like this can be labor intensive projects with varied success.
The next Ebay score I simply wandered into one morning before work. The last worry, the driveshaft mainly the slip yoke , materialized when my original source located it in his garage. Despite the auto continuing to fail, I was reluctant to completely take the car off the road to start the conversion without more parts in hand.
I compiled an exhaustive spreadsheet on Google Docs with all the parts I would need, and used it to cross reference parts and availability from various suppliers. I plan to publish this document at some point, once I clean it up a bit.
I ended up ordering the bulk of the new parts from the Jaguar Daimler Heritage Trust www. David Manners www. There were a few surprises, including finding the correct clutch kit on Rockauto. More on that later. With clutch, new master and slave cylinders, hydraulic pipe assembly, and hardware in hand, I turned my attention to the remaining used parts. With arrangements made, giddy, I set off in the Jag to fetch my parts. The converted V8-Jaguar weighs to lbs.
This diet enhances handling and corrects the common nose down attitude due to front spring sag without detracting from the ride quality for which Jaguar is renowned. In general, a stock small block V8 is considerably quicker than even the V A V12 car is preferred for front suspension, exhaust, positraction POWER-LOK and rear axle ratios but refitting the proper pieces to a 6-cylinder car will achieve the desired results.
The kit is not compatible with raised block or truck motors. A T automatic transmission is recommended and a passenger car oil pan is needed. High rise intake manifolds will not fit under stock XJS hood. Two barrel intake will not clear hood.
Performance specs A big block Jag still weighs lbs. Center of gravity is even lower than the Chevy small block. No liability assumed for behavioral changes. Buying a piece at a time will drive you and the parts person nuts, not to mention the added time and money. Alternatively, consider also buying an older but complete Chevrolet car and rebuilding the motor, transmission, etc.
Performance mods are easy to do at overhaul time. I suggest up long style water pump and brackets, internal regulator alternator and HEI distributor. Important: Check with your local authorities or inspection facilities to determine what is required for your conversion. Usually, the newest factor engine or car determines what year standards you will have to meet, but again, check with the local authorities. Sometimes they will insist on a FI V8 if your Jag had fuel injection, and others won't let you use a truck motor in a passenger car.
If they waffle, have them put it in writing! California: Call for official literature. As we understand the laws, cars manufactured in or earlier are exempt from emissions a 30 year rolling exemption law begins [].
Briefly, I suggest a T for post cars with a 2. T The T was introduced in the mid 60s and underwent the same woes as the early T T The time honored T is not required unless you have a big block, hot rod small block or plan on towing a trailer. The Jaguar version of the T will not bolt to any GM engine. You will also need to purchase a torque converter and starter seperately. Although skepticism was high, I installed a T in the first Series 3 car I converted that same year.
After 90, miles in three years I was convinced enough to endorse it and in it was still going strong with , miles. Why am I pro ? All T's have torque-convertor lockup and it must be hooked up to prevent damage to the transmission.
Operation of the T without modification will definitely shorten trans life. Use a carburetted motor for the simplest installation and maintenance. Here are some estimates for a used Chevy engine and transmission assembly and other items not included. Estimated Costs of Local Components Engine, trans and accessories I am 50 years old and have a bachelor's degree in civil and mining engineering.
I have been a street rodder for better than 25 years My street rodding background has made me painfully aware of the expense of having to manufacture all of your own brackets, hoses, etc In my opinion, your kit is still cheaper at twice the price Thanks again, both for making the kit available and for being so helpful on the phone. The conversion turned what had been a dog into a real cat Chester Stevens, Hazard, KY Completeness: With well over XJ conversions behind me, we know what the problems and pitfalls are and my kit helps you avoid them.
We continue to refine the kit to keep it the best solution for you. If you are happy with your conversion, you become the best advertisement available. Our kits include over pieces, require absolutely no mods to the exterior or interior of car and the instrumentation functions as original. No cutting, fabrication or welding required. Technical help is part of the deal! However, we can't help with Joe Stroke's This will give you an idea of how complete and thorough my kit is and your entire project could be.
It provides details on buying and assembling your Chevy driveline and removing the Jag motor. Just Do It: Buy my kit, start it, finish it, and drive it down the road. Lots of people could make one run, but after how many months and what is the resale value of a Heinz 57? It takes longer to repair that junkyard creation than to start from scratch with the complete kit. Converting your XJ with a carbureted V8 takes hours exclusive of detailing.
Detailing is the effort that shines, from repainting the engine compartment, the brake booster and heat shields to a fresh coat of paint on the V8 and installation of the chrome dress-ups desired.
The Original: Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery, but I have yet to see another conversion kit that flatters me. Everyone selling kits or plans has had one of my kits, yet their product and workmanship do not come close to the JCI standard. Maybe I'm a bit wordy I think you would rather know some of the pitfalls now than find out later.
Please call for details. The V8 conversion alone does not do it; it has to be a proper job with a secure track record. Still not a believer? Read our Customer Testimonials to hear what our customers think about us and our products.
I was able to fashion something similar for the rotted rubber between the lever sleeve and the eye of the shift lever using the same thin neoprene material I used to make up the pedal housing gasket. I wrapped the sleeve tightly and greased the inside of the shifter eye.
I then unwound the material, removing half an inch at a time until it would just fit. It worked very well. The feel of the gear shift while driving is crucial to having a nice driving car, so the extra care here is worthwhile. Lastly, I took the opportunity to test fit the bellhousing to the engine. The left hand locator dowel was a little rusty and required some light filing to produce a smooth fit. In an attempt to stay ahead of potential disruptions to forward progress, I decided to test the fitment of my clutch hose to the master and slave cylinders.
The master cylinder end fits fine, but the open port on the slave cylinder is larger than the hose fitting. I pulled the bleeder screw and found that the hose fitting matched that one.
I suspect that the rebuilder fitted the wrong port with a bleeder screw out of ignorance or simply lack of availability of a correctly sized bleeder. As I measure it, the thread pitch is 1. I could neither match it to any locally available bleeder screws or find any M12 bleed screws available for sale online.
After pondering that for a few days, I remembered there was a bleeder screw on the valve block for the hydraulic brake boost system. I have a spare, so I pulled it and sure enough it fits the larger port. The photo shows the slave cylinder with the two bleeder screws installed.
The silver one will be removed to provide attachment for the clutch pipe. The larger brass colored one from the hydraulic system will serve as the bleed screw for the clutch system. First, a pair of 14mm long M4 hex standoffs were installed over the studs of the brake switch. This set the assembly at the proper depth such that the small arm welded to the clutch pedal would contact the switch plunger.
Next, I replicated the outline of the blanking plate on a piece of sheet stock and drilled the holes at the locations needed to meet the hex standoffs. I then added a coat of semi-flat paint and a rubber gasket cut from some neoprene. Two 8mm M4 cap screws hold the switch to the plate. It all works very nicely and feels quite solid. A lifetime of brake fluid spills and a leak some years back at the master cylinder reservoir had left the horizontal shelf near the pedal box devoid of paint, instead covered in a mixture of rust and grease.
Swapping the pedal box provides a perfect opportunity to have enough access to re-paint this area. Earlier this week I called around and found a local auto paint supply house to mix up a spray-bomb of factory paint.
Removing the automatic pedal box is pretty straightforward. The master cylinder pulls back off the booster studs without disturbing the hydraulics. With fixings removed, the assembly just lifts out. As with all paint jobs, the first step is seemingly endless scrubbing, sanding, cleaning, and masking. Several hours of prep and I was ready to spray only the problem areas, leaving my factory original paint everywhere else. I did three light coats of primer, two light coats of paint, and one medium coat of paint.
This photo is not great, but the paint looks good and is remarkably close match, certainly good enough for the engine bay. In between coats, I worked on cleanup up the greasy power booster and otherwise building up the pedal box. I picked the best hardware amongst my three pedal boxes and used new studs, washers and nuts.
The dual brake light switch from my automatic pedal box swapped right over to the manual box. It looks like I will be able to adapt that brake microswitch for the clutch. The mounting plates are different on each side, but when holding the switch against the little arm on the clutch pedal it is framed perfectly against the opening in the side of the pedal box.
A goal of this project is to use factory parts and minimize fabrication, but this should be pretty easy, cheap, and hidden. Some Autosol metal polish cleaned up the aluminum nicely. There are still a few dirty spots, but at thousand miles this is no show car.
After the paint cures and I get my hardware to finish up the clutch interlock switch, that should pretty much take care of the pedal box. The last step will be to install pristine new pedal pads on those freshly painted pedals. I asked them to surface the flywheel minimally since it is so rare, although the workshop manual allows for up to 1.
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